Expanding the definition of a chef
Embodying a new image of a chef.

Interview

Naoya Oguri
Food Production Section Restaurant Operations Team
Head chef Joined as a new graduate in 2016

As a chef, as a person,
Where is there the most potential for growth?

As a child, I loved to make things. I especially fell in love with cooking as I helped my mother. I was happy to see the reactions of people who ate my food, so even in the midst of my rebellious phase, I would cook with my mother, and when I became a high school student, I started to cook for my friends. I chose to go to culinary school without any hesitation. After entering culinary school, I was fascinated by the "aesthetics of time and effort" of taking the time to make soup stock, and I specialized in Western cuisine and honed my skills.


Then came the time for job hunting. I came across Happo-en while visiting mainly major hotels. When I joined the wedding department as an intern, I saw chefs grilling meat and fish over a fire in front of customers and entertaining them in every way possible, including performing arts. I was struck by this, and at the same time, I felt that experiencing the warm hospitality of Happo-en would help me grow not only as a chef, but also as a person. With these expectations, I decided to join the company.

"The culture of entrusting others" is what makes a chef
It will encourage you to become independent.

Soon after joining the company, I was put in charge of appetizers at Thrush Café, and in the second half of my second year, I was also in charge of main dishes such as pasta. I think it was around my fourth year that I was able to handle a full range of work. After that, I was put in charge of the head chef of Thrush Café, Hakuhokan, and RESTAURANT ENJYU, and now I manage ingredients, people, and figures, as well as product development, on a daily basis.


In order to become a full-fledged chef quickly, I decided to come to work earlier than anyone else. I would arrive in the kitchen two hours before everyone gathered and prepare for business hours, including preparing the ingredients. Of course, I would also find time during business hours to practice and receive one-on-one instruction from senior chefs. In addition to my eagerness to grow, Happo-en has seniors who respond to my enthusiasm and a culture of boldly delegating various tasks to younger employees. If you are motivated, you can grow at a speed that would not be possible at other companies. Now, as the one who has inherited that culture, I support the growth of my juniors.

There is no right answer when it comes to cooking.

It was around my fourth year at the company. That year, I went on a company training trip to a farm where crops were grown, and it was an experience that overturned my preconceptions. For example, potatoes have their own standard way of preparing them, such as boiling, baking, or frying. Chefs, including myself, cook and plan menus according to these theories. However, the farmers were surprisingly free in their cooking, boiling onions whole without cutting them with a knife, and other seemingly unconventional methods that you won't find in textbooks. But when I tried them, they were really delicious. There may be a standard, but there is no right answer when it comes to cooking. I felt like I was free from my own thinking.


Since then, if there is an ingredient that catches my eye, I travel all over the country to deepen my understanding of the farmers' unique cooking methods, the story behind the ingredient, the traditional culture and local cuisine of the region, and so on, and use this knowledge to develop my menus. When I talk with customers across the counter, I share what I have seen and heard directly, so that they not only leave with a full stomach and soul, but also with something they have learned. These steady efforts gradually pay off in the form of positive feedback for the restaurant, and for me it was a satisfying and successful experience.

Our goal is to
Comprehensive food producer.

"At Happo-en, I'm sure I can grow as a chef and as a person." The breadth of experience that my decision at that time brought me was greater than I had imagined. When Happo-en launched Area Produce Kego in Fukuoka, I was involved not only in the cooking but also in the design and conception of the floor. It was also my mission to convey the "Happo-en style" to the local staff and reflect it in the way they treated us. Being entrusted with a job that went beyond the traditional framework of a "chef" changed my image of what a chef is. A chef is not just someone who cooks food, but also someone who thinks about the space in which the food is served and how to communicate with customers, and produces the entire dining experience. I realized that the traditional idea of "cooking food" is an important element of the entire dining experience, but is only a part of it, and I had a new vision of what I should aim for.


When I travel to vegetable-producing areas all over Japan, I can see the unique value of each place, but at the same time, I can also see many challenges. I hope to become a chef who can convey the greatness of Japan through food, give back in various ways, and contribute to regional revitalization. I believe that even such a big dream will come true someday. I think that is also the power of Happo-en.

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